• Utrecht, the Netherlands
Roadmeister.cc
Cable routing handlebar/headset ๐Ÿ›ฃ๏ธ

Cable routing handlebar/headset ๐Ÿ›ฃ๏ธ

Time to route the cables through the handlebar/headset. As I’ve previously very quickly tried to get these extremely stiff cables into the handlebar I decided to make my life a little easier. I bought myself the, imho quite expensive, internal routing kit from Park Tool (see shopping list). Absolutely amazed how easy it was to get the job done. Feel free to borrow it if you live close to Utrecht.

I’ve decided to go for the expensive Park Tool because I couldn’t wait for an alternative with longer delivery dates. You might want to check out Bicycle Internal Cable Routing Tool from AliExpress. Much much cheaper and will probably do the job as well. Please leave a comment if you have good experience with this one.

All of a sudden I doubted whether I shouldn’t have started with routing into the handlebars first and then get the cables into the frame. Not sure what is the best solution, but this worked for me.

I decided to use all three spacers first and then measure how much I had to cut the headtube.

Once measured I found out that I’ve done things in the wrong order….๐Ÿคฆโ€โ™‚๏ธ I thought I was able to get to fork out again but totally forgot about the front brake cable which was already nicely routed into the handlebar.๐Ÿคฌ

โœ”๏ธ Lesson learned: measuring and cutting the headtube should have been done at an earlier stage…..

Anyway, I had to remove the front brake cable again and then cut the headtube with a handsaw. After that, re-routed the front brake cable through the handlebar again. Still very happy that I bought that Part Tool Internal Cable Routing Kit ๐Ÿ’ฏ.

Up to the next step: Installing and positioning the shifters/levers. ๐Ÿ’ช

10 thoughts on “Cable routing handlebar/headset ๐Ÿ›ฃ๏ธ

    • Nice looking build! Was it hard for you to figure out what length to cut the steerer considering you can’t really leave anything at the top?

    • Hi Niels, did you use specific tools and saw (fine teeth?) to cut the fork?
      Thanks!

    • Vraagje, ben nu zelf bezig met een build met dit frame maar dan mechanisch schakelen.
      Voor de achter-derailleur, zou jij daar de cable-housing laten lopen tot waar hij het frame uit komt en dan kale kabel tot aan de derailleur, of de cable-housing doortrekken tot aan de derailleur (daarbij zou ik wel de sparing in de insert in het frame iets groter moeten maken zodat de cable-housing daar doorheen past.

      • Wat bedoel je met mechanisch schakelen?
        (Ik ben een beginner dus kan zijn dat ik je niet helemaal begrijp.)

        Voor zover ik weer schakel ik ook mechanisch en zijn het alleen de schijfremmen die in mijn versie van de groepset hydraulisch zijn.

        Kan niet helemaal overzien hoe het er bij jou frame/achter derailleur uitziet maar als het kan zou ik de kabel doortrekken. Dan kan het minder vuil worden en wellicht minder weerstand van de kabel bij schakelen.

    • which bar size did you go with? ๐Ÿ™‚

    • I also bought a Workswell WCB-R-268 frame. The frame has arrived and includes the forks but without the headset bearings and the bearings from my Giant TCR SL doesn’t fit. The headset on the 268 is tapered and despite taking the frame to local dealers, non have been able to assist in finding a headset that fits. Can you advise on which size headset I need to purchase and where from please?

      • Hi Pete, did you manage to fix this? I think Workswell should be able to help you out. Otherwise, maybe Velobuild can recommend the correct size. Mine came with the frame so I don’t really know what size would fit for you.

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